Matt’s RV7 Build Log

A lot got done today on the left elevator. I went over to a friends shop to get a good cut on the oak I planned to use on the sking tabs and trim tabs. I marched through the riveting of the skeleton and even the tab bending went quicker than I tought it might. Even with the doublestick tape I had trouble keeping the very end of the wood inplace for the bend. Overall I am pleased with the results. I hope to improve my tab bending art when doing the trim tabs.

When riveting the skeleton I waited to rivet E713 and 714 together. Instead, I first riveted the inboard rib to the spar and then riveted the outboard rib to both of these. Getting to the rivets that mount the ribs to the spar is WAY easier with this method. I also replaced the original counterweight with a new one because I had cut the original down. Getting the holes to line up with the counterbalance skin holes and the ribs holes was a pain. I highly recommend not screwing this part up in the first place. With a little body english, I finally got the bolts to fit.

Tasks Completed:    

• Made new counterweight
• Dimpled left elevator skin
• Bent elevator skin tab
• Riveted left elevator skeleton

Today I played hooky from work. I got some good quality time in with the construction. Discovered my work on the left counterweight was a screw-up. I could probably add some weight back once it comes time to balance but I decided to keep everything neat and tidy. So I ordered a new E714 from Vans. Next up I etched and primed the left elevator structure. It was in the low 40’s outside but the primer seemed to go on alright.

I began to set up for bending the trim tab cut out on the left skin. I need to go to a friends shop to get a good straight cut on the piece of oak that will be my bending jig. After setting that aside I decided to finish up the servo mount. I built a little wood jig to help me countersink the coverplate neatly. I had previously dimpled the cover plate so I need a small piece of wood the cleco onto the plate without any distorting. It worked out great. With the brackets mounted I installed the servo motor. Only now I can’t seem to get the assembly to fit into its hole on the skin.

Tasks Completed:    

• Etched and primed left elevator assembly
• Set up left elevator skin for the trim tab bend
• Riveted servo mount brackets on coverplate

Over the last few days I have transfered all my paper and electronic logs of the build over to this blog. It’ll be much easier to update and edit along the way. Plus I can share progress with other builders and maybe pass on some of the hard lessons I learn along the way.

Also today I went down and picked up Dave Parson’s old wing cradle at his hanger in Renton. The wings aren’t due till April but its never too early to carve some space out in the basement. It was nice to see his -7A up close. I learned some good intel. On some of his systems.

I might switch to putting the landing light in the wingtips instead of the duckworks setup. It looks like less of a hassle. His dual AFS EFIS setup is sweet but he did say it wasn’t flawless. Little glitches here and there during updates and such. That probably won’t dissuade me from installing an EFIS but I should do more research on each model and the support that comes with it.

Tasks Completed:      

• Cutaway excess lead on left elevator counterweight

Note: I ended up removing a bit more than I wanted but its within spec. Also there was a bubble exposed after cutting away the lead. I’ll probably end up filling with epoxy just to keep moisture out. 

Update (12.11.07): DO NOT remove material from the left E714 counterweight. I did not read the plans carefully enough. There is a note under the trim detail for the right counterweight that says this is for the ride side only! The extra lead on the left side is to counteract the additional weight created by the trim tab. 

–Match drilled E610P and E702
–Clecoed E703 and 704 together
–Matchdrilled them to E702
–Shaped E714 and clecoed E713 into place.

NOTE: E610PP holes don’t quit align with E702 holes.They appear to be 1/32″ off. I emailed Van’s. They said if I can get the clecos on without distorting the spar, then its probably ok to drill. Build on…2 hours

We just got back from a long weekend in Vegas. It was nice be in the warm desert before our winter really kicks into high gear. Now back to the project!

• Clecoed left elevator skeleton together
• Cut away right counterweight per plans

Note: Holes in the outboard right elevator spar doubler and the E701R spar are slightly off set by approx. 1/32″. I need to contact Van’s to confirm this is within tolerances. Update (11.20.07): Joe B. at Van’s says its no issue as long as no torsion is created in the spar by trying the force the clecoes in place (which is not happening in my case). Problem resolved.