Matt’s RV7 Build Log

Tasks Completed:

• Match drilled bottom of E607 flange
• Match drilled trim tab horns
• Match drilled top flange of E607 and hinge 

Okay–so after reading about putting this part together and an aborted attempt last night, I finally got around to bending the trim tab tabs for real.

First, I made another oak break with the interlocking notch at the top. I highly recommend oak or another hard wood because you are going put a lot of pressure on this break and you’ll want to minimize the flex.

The bends on each side worked very well this time. My only complaint is that I ended up with kinks on each trailing edge. This was caused by the trailing edge of the positive break was a tad thinner than the radius of the trim tab. So when all that pressure was applied the edge of the wood break put a kink in the trailing edge of the trim tab.

Tasks Completed:

• Bent inboard and outboard tabs of the trimtab
• Pop riveted elevator skin tabs
• Finished riveting left elevator skin to skeleton 

I mostly just riveted tonight. I thought about remaking the wood break with the interlocking halves, but didn’t get around to it.

Tasks Completed:

• Drilled holes in skin tabs 
• Riveted bottom side of elevator skin to skeleton 
• Added RTV to inside trailing edge of stiffeners
• Began to rivet top side of skin to skeleton

Note: Although the instructions say to countersink the entire topside of E606PP, I would dimple the outboard 4 holes that are to be pop riveted to the skin. This will be a stronger bond than the dimpled skin against countersunk hole. 

I started on the trim tab tonight, but quickly got into a little trouble. The wood break I made for bending the elevator skin tabs does not have interlocking top half. So when I tightened the C-clamps the inside half slipped out causing a slight kink in the trib tab skin. It’s minor and helps “customize” my -7 but after that I hung up my tools for the night.

Tasks Competed:

• Began riveting skin to skeleton
• Mark elevator tab for drilling
• Started working on trim tab 

Tasks Completed:

• Removed vinyl from inside skin
• Riveted counterbalance skin to 701 skin
• Clecoed skeleton to skin

A lot got done today on the left elevator. I went over to a friends shop to get a good cut on the oak I planned to use on the sking tabs and trim tabs. I marched through the riveting of the skeleton and even the tab bending went quicker than I tought it might. Even with the doublestick tape I had trouble keeping the very end of the wood inplace for the bend. Overall I am pleased with the results. I hope to improve my tab bending art when doing the trim tabs.

When riveting the skeleton I waited to rivet E713 and 714 together. Instead, I first riveted the inboard rib to the spar and then riveted the outboard rib to both of these. Getting to the rivets that mount the ribs to the spar is WAY easier with this method. I also replaced the original counterweight with a new one because I had cut the original down. Getting the holes to line up with the counterbalance skin holes and the ribs holes was a pain. I highly recommend not screwing this part up in the first place. With a little body english, I finally got the bolts to fit.

Tasks Completed:    

• Made new counterweight
• Dimpled left elevator skin
• Bent elevator skin tab
• Riveted left elevator skeleton

Today I played hooky from work. I got some good quality time in with the construction. Discovered my work on the left counterweight was a screw-up. I could probably add some weight back once it comes time to balance but I decided to keep everything neat and tidy. So I ordered a new E714 from Vans. Next up I etched and primed the left elevator structure. It was in the low 40’s outside but the primer seemed to go on alright.

I began to set up for bending the trim tab cut out on the left skin. I need to go to a friends shop to get a good straight cut on the piece of oak that will be my bending jig. After setting that aside I decided to finish up the servo mount. I built a little wood jig to help me countersink the coverplate neatly. I had previously dimpled the cover plate so I need a small piece of wood the cleco onto the plate without any distorting. It worked out great. With the brackets mounted I installed the servo motor. Only now I can’t seem to get the assembly to fit into its hole on the skin.

Tasks Completed:    

• Etched and primed left elevator assembly
• Set up left elevator skin for the trim tab bend
• Riveted servo mount brackets on coverplate

This evening the right elevator was completed. I doubled the number of pop rivets in the middle section to create a nice tight edge. I temporarily installed the elevator to the horizontal stab. It was very satisfying to see a moving control surface. I marked approximately where I need to remove some of the outboard edge of the HS to allow the counterbalance arm of the elevator to swing freely. 

Tasks Completed:  

• Drilled out leading edge holes to #30
• Added rivet holes to middle section
• Pop riveted leading edge
• Installed rod end bearings and jam nuts 

I just returned from a week in LA shooting a spot. I was wiped out but managed to spend an hour tweaking the right elevator leading edge bend a little more. It’s coming along although it proving to be harder to get a good edge bend as compared to the rudder skin. Most of the issue is that the top edge should overlap on top of the bottom edge. However, for whatever reason Van’s made the bottom half longer than the top. So I am fighting the edges to line up and create a nice edge once the two halves are mated.

Tasks Completed:    

• Continued leading edge bend on right elevator

Tonight I snuck down to the basement for a couple of hours. I started bending the leading edge of the right elevator. I was much more efficient with effort and the amount of duct tape compared with the rudder. I did notice the thinker skin on the elevator takes a bit more force to bend. I left the workshop with the edges clecoed together, but it needs more work before I can drill and rivet.

Tasks Completed:    

• Started bending leading edge