My fellow builder Jason (who started an -8 about at the same time I started my -7) came over with a close quarter 1/8″ dimple die after church today. I needed it to dimple one last hole in the outboard trim tab bend that is unreachable with a regular size dimple die. Build on!
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Note: A couple of the rivets for the horn did not seem to seat well. I will need to review with the tech counselor. Also getting everything dimpled and riveted together in the trim is a BITCH! I made a couple of cosmetic booboos to the skin trying to get dimple dies and a squeezer in there.
After reflecting over christmas I decided to go the way of many who have gone before me and order another trim tab skin. The deciding factor was a lack of clearance between the elevator and trim tab where they meet on the trailing edge. I didn’t mark my line for the outboard tab bend using the square so after the bends were made the edge clearance goes to nil as it goes aft.
On the bright side I decided to do this now to save from drilling rivets or ordering all the other trim trim tab parts. Once the skin arrived on Thursday I made quick work out of redoing the bendsm matchdrilling, and dimpling all the parts.
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Okay–so after reading about putting this part together and an aborted attempt last night, I finally got around to bending the trim tab tabs for real.
First, I made another oak break with the interlocking notch at the top. I highly recommend oak or another hard wood because you are going put a lot of pressure on this break and you’ll want to minimize the flex.
The bends on each side worked very well this time. My only complaint is that I ended up with kinks on each trailing edge. This was caused by the trailing edge of the positive break was a tad thinner than the radius of the trim tab. So when all that pressure was applied the edge of the wood break put a kink in the trailing edge of the trim tab.
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I mostly just riveted tonight. I thought about remaking the wood break with the interlocking halves, but didn’t get around to it.
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Note: Although the instructions say to countersink the entire topside of E606PP, I would dimple the outboard 4 holes that are to be pop riveted to the skin. This will be a stronger bond than the dimpled skin against countersunk hole.
I started on the trim tab tonight, but quickly got into a little trouble. The wood break I made for bending the elevator skin tabs does not have interlocking top half. So when I tightened the C-clamps the inside half slipped out causing a slight kink in the trib tab skin. It’s minor and helps “customize” my -7 but after that I hung up my tools for the night.
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A lot got done today on the left elevator. I went over to a friends shop to get a good cut on the oak I planned to use on the sking tabs and trim tabs. I marched through the riveting of the skeleton and even the tab bending went quicker than I tought it might. Even with the doublestick tape I had trouble keeping the very end of the wood inplace for the bend. Overall I am pleased with the results. I hope to improve my tab bending art when doing the trim tabs.
When riveting the skeleton I waited to rivet E713 and 714 together. Instead, I first riveted the inboard rib to the spar and then riveted the outboard rib to both of these. Getting to the rivets that mount the ribs to the spar is WAY easier with this method. I also replaced the original counterweight with a new one because I had cut the original down. Getting the holes to line up with the counterbalance skin holes and the ribs holes was a pain. I highly recommend not screwing this part up in the first place. With a little body english, I finally got the bolts to fit.
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Today I played hooky from work. I got some good quality time in with the construction. Discovered my work on the left counterweight was a screw-up. I could probably add some weight back once it comes time to balance but I decided to keep everything neat and tidy. So I ordered a new E714 from Vans. Next up I etched and primed the left elevator structure. It was in the low 40’s outside but the primer seemed to go on alright.
I began to set up for bending the trim tab cut out on the left skin. I need to go to a friends shop to get a good straight cut on the piece of oak that will be my bending jig. After setting that aside I decided to finish up the servo mount. I built a little wood jig to help me countersink the coverplate neatly. I had previously dimpled the cover plate so I need a small piece of wood the cleco onto the plate without any distorting. It worked out great. With the brackets mounted I installed the servo motor. Only now I can’t seem to get the assembly to fit into its hole on the skin.
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